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4 Tips From Olympus USA for the E-30 and E-3
By tspore at 01/05/2009 - 07:33

#1 Tip for increasing the dynamic range in the image with the E-30 / E-3:

Shadow Adjustment Technology is built-in to several of the Olympus E-series cameras.

This technology, when active, expands the range of tonal detail in the image.

Shadow detail becomes apparent while the existing detail in the highlights is maintained.

Shadow Adjustment Technology ON/OFF is located in the GRADATION menu.

The fastest way to access the GRADATION menu is to bring up the control panel on the LCD (press the OK button on the back of the camera), and scroll to and select the GRADATION ICON*- press the OK button to enter the menu.

*The GRADATION menu ICON is on the right hand side of the control panel and it looks like a figure eight or infinity symbol.

Once in this menu, you have the option of setting gradation to: AUTO, NORMAL, HIGH KEY, or LOW KEY.

Selecting AUTO in the GRADATION menu, turns Shadow Adjustment ON for extended shadow detail.

This is a good choice in situations where there is extreme contrast in a scene like shooting outdoors on a bright sunny day.

NORMAL is the default setting-great for overcast days or in flat lighting.

HIGH KEY and LOW KEY are designed to specifically emphasize highlights-for clean whites, or shadows-for rich blacks.

Extra Tip: If you want to have manual control over the contrast adjustment be sure the GRADATION menu is set to the NORMAL position.

#2 A tip to optimize the autofocus response with the E-30 (or E-3):

GROUP AF TARGET: Great for all around usage

For faster AF response in low light be sure to set the active AF target points to the GROUP setting.

The quickest way to make the adjustment is by pressing AND holding the AF target direct access button on the upper right hand corner of the back of the camera. It is the button with the three dots, and it can be easily accessed with your thumb while holding the camera.

When pressed, the AF target menu will appear on the LCD. Use the front control wheel (on the front of the camera body by your fore finger) to adjust the AF targets to one of three options: ALL 11 points active, SINGLE point active, or GROUP of five active points.

-GROUP AF target works great for general shooting and in low light.

-SINGLE AF point works great for macro photography or when shooting through other objects that surround your subject like shooting a bird through the branches of a tree.

-ALL AF targets ON - a good choice in situations where the contrast of your subject stands out against the background. For example, a tennis player in white clothing against the darker color of the court; Because all AF targets are active in this situation and looking for contrast, the camera can quickly lock focus on the tennis player against the solid color background.

Extra AF Tip: After you adjust the AF target area (and while you are still in the AF target menu) you can adjust the position of the AF target(s) by using the control wheel on the back of the camera. This is handy for specific compositions when the subject may not be centered in the frame and the camera is in a stationary position like on a tripod.

#3 IS Modes Functionality

-IS-1 will shift the image sensor along both the horizontal and vertical planes to accommodate from movement by the photographer

-IS-2 when holding the camera horizontally-shifts the sensor along the vertical plane only, so you can pan with a moving subject

-IS-3 This mode is for panning while holding the camera vertically, it will only shift the sensor along the vertical plane to maintain the panning effect

#4 Using Art Filters on the E-30



Click the photo for a larger image.


by nrgaudet on Mon, 01/05/2009 - 16:20
It talks about IS 3. We don't have IS 3 on the E3 do we? Just 1 and 2? Did I forget to do an update?

by tspore on Mon, 01/05/2009 - 17:38
IS 3 is only on the E-30, and E-520. But most of the tips are very relevant to both cameras.

by BL3 on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 03:19
Tony: I couldn't help but note hint #2 "How to optimize AF" advocates using the five point diamond matrix as an all-around setting for selecting the focus point(s), especially in low light situations. I have to admit that I've not heard this notion before, and I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with using it in such a manner. I've only tried it once, trying to capture birds in flight without much success, but it certainly wasn't a low light exercise. I guess I'll give it another try, but I have a degree of skepticism about letting the camera determine the focus instead of me. I did find the bit about using all the focus points for a high contrast scenario enlightening, as I previously couldn't figure why anyone would have all 11 points active. Thanks for the link.

Rocky

by itsaphoto on Sun, 01/11/2009 - 18:26
Expansion of dynamic range is only for JPEG settings though, right? I did fool around with it when I first got my E-3, but it produced unwanted noise.

by tspore on Mon, 01/12/2009 - 04:56
Yea. Most of the Olympus guys I know, don't get raw. They simply shoot Jpeg's and expect most of the users too also.

by jnicklin on Mon, 01/12/2009 - 13:02
Using jpeg only would seem to be a waste of potential. Most times I have shot jpeg only, I have regretted it.

by zedmartinez on Mon, 01/12/2009 - 16:29
I leave my E-3 set to diamond AF, I don't shoot much wildlife or much macro, and I've never had a problem. The five pattern will often lock onto things (like a blank wall) where single point won't. The five pattern is more decisive than single AF if you should happen to be over a fairly uniform area (ie, if for some reason I got the single point dead over a pupil it might not focus, but a five point will snag the eye every time). I've never had any complaints with my autofocus results, I remain pretty confident that any failures I've had are entirely down to my own fault.

by Hokuto on Tue, 01/13/2009 - 12:28
Quote:
Originally Posted by itsaphoto View Post
Expansion of dynamic range is only for JPEG settings though, right? I did fool around with it when I first got my E-3, but it produced unwanted noise.
You can get the benefit results of SAT in two ways when shooting raw: 1) develop using Master/Studio; 2) develop in-camera after the fact. In fact, you can run the development process multiple times if you want, although the image will probably begin to break down pretty quick, as in this example.

It's been noted several times before that it actually works pretty well at low ISOs, but produces excessive noise about ISO 400 or so.

by 250swb on Fri, 01/16/2009 - 08:29
You can just as easily get the effect of SAT when processing your RAW file in ACR, just use the 'Fill Light' slider. It creates far less noise than either the in-camera JPEG function or using Studio/Master. In post processing you can also use the PS3 'Shadow/Highlight' control to achieve the same thing, again with far less noise than the Olympus software.

Of course neither SAT nor ACR/Studio/Master expand the dynamic range of the photograph, they just work with the information that is 'in' the photograph already, something that Olympus seem to have acknowleged in their subtle choice of language. I don't think everybody will read it correctly though, so to avoid mis-understanding Olympus shouldn't be using the words 'dynamic range', which after all refers to something Olympus aren't all that good at in the first place.

Steve

by jan56 on Mon, 01/19/2009 - 10:03
Quote:
Originally Posted by zedmartinez View Post
I leave my E-3 set to diamond AF, I don't shoot much wildlife or much macro, and I've never had a problem. The five pattern will often lock onto things (like a blank wall) where single point won't. The five pattern is more decisive than single AF if you should happen to be over a fairly uniform area (ie, if for some reason I got the single point dead over a pupil it might not focus, but a five point will snag the eye every time). I've never had any complaints with my autofocus results, I remain pretty confident that any failures I've had are entirely down to my own fault.
interesting, my preference is single point/small for portraits, as I like to focus on the eye. For flying birds I switch to the 5 point, use the 11 point very seldom though... :-)
Jan

 

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